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Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us, by Michael Moss
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From a Pulitzer Prize-winning investigative reporter at The New York Times comes the troubling story of the rise of the processed food industry -- and how it used salt, sugar, and fat to addict us.
Salt Sugar Fat is a journey into the highly secretive world of the processed food giants, and the story of how they have deployed these three essential ingredients, over the past five decades, to dominate the North American diet. This is an eye-opening book that demonstrates how the makers of these foods have chosen, time and again, to double down on their efforts to increase consumption and profits, gambling that consumers and regulators would never figure them out. With meticulous original reporting, access to confidential files and memos, and numerous sources from deep inside the industry, it shows how these companies have pushed ahead, despite their own misgivings (never aired publicly). Salt Sugar Fat is the story of how we got here, and it will hold the food giants accountable for the social costs that keep climbing even as some of the industry's own say, "Enough already."
- Sales Rank: #2172698 in Books
- Published on: 2013-02-26
- Released on: 2013-02-26
- Format: International Edition
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.50" h x 1.18" w x 6.57" l,
- Binding: Hardcover
- 480 pages
Amazon.com Review
Q&A with Michael Moss
Q. How did you land on salt, sugar, and fat as your way to write about the industry? Why these three ingredients?
A. I’d been investigating a surge in deadly outbreaks of E. coli in meat when an industry source, a microbiologist, suggested that if I wanted to see an even bigger public health hazard, I should look at what food companies were intentionally adding to their products, starting with salt. And sure enough, when I looked at this--by gaining access to high level industry officials and a trove of sensitive, internal records--a window opened on how aggressive the industry was wielding not only salt, but sugar and fat, too. These are the pillars of processed foods, the three ingredients without which there would be no processed foods. Salt, sugar and fat drive consumption by adding flavor and allure. But surprisingly, they also mask bitter flavors that develop in the manufacturing process. They enable these foods to sit in warehouses or on the grocery shelf for months. And, most critically to the industry's financial success, they are very inexpensive.
Q. So, how big is the processed food industry, exactly? What kind of scale are we talking about here?
A. Huge. Grocery sales now top $1 trillion a year in the U.S., with more than 300 manufacturers employing 1.4 million workers, or 12 percent of all American manufacturing jobs. Global sales exceed $3 trillion. But the figure I find most revealing is 60,000: That’s the number of different products found on the shelves of our largest supermarkets.
Q. How did this get so big?
A. The food processing industry is more than a century old--if you count the invention of breakfast cereals--so it’s been steady growth. But things really took off in the 1950s with the promotion of convenience foods whose design and marketing was aimed at the increasing numbers of families with both parents working outside the home. The industry's expansion, since then, has been entirely unrestrained. While food safety is heavily regulated, the government has been industry's best friend and partner in encouraging Americans to become more dependent on processed foods.
Q. What three things should a health-conscious supermarket shopper keep in mind?
A. The most alluring products--those with the highest amounts of salt, sugar and fat--are strategically placed at eye-level on the grocery shelf. You typically have to stoop down to find, say, plain oatmeal. (Healthier products are generally up high or down low.) Companies also play the better-nutrition card by plastering their packaging with terms like "all natural," "contains whole grains," “contains real fruit juice,” and "lean," which belie the true contents of the products. Reading labels is not easy. Only since the 1990s have the manufacturers even been required to reveal the true salt, sugar, fat and caloric loads of their products, which are itemized in a box called the "nutrient facts." But one game that many companies still play is to divide these numbers in half, or even thirds, by reporting this critical information per serving--which are typically tiny portions. In particular, they do this for cookies and chips, knowing that most people can't resist eating the entire three-serving bag. Check it out sometime. See how many “servings” that little bag of chips contains.
From Booklist
The U.S. has the highest rate of obesity in the world, much of it due to the abundance of cheap, calorie-rich, processed food. Food companies manipulate our biological desires to scientifically engineer foods that induce cravings to overeat, using terms like mouth feel for fats and bliss point for sugars to tinker with formulations that will trigger the optimum food high. Coke even refers to their best customers as heavy users. Moss portrays how the industry discovered the allure of added sugar in the 1900s, and has been jacking up the levels ever since, without regard for consumer health, in everything from soda to breakfast cereals to instant pudding, in a race for market share. The food industry is not about to change, but this book is a wake-up call to the issues and tactics at play and to the fact that we are not helpless in facing them down. Moss is an investigative reporter with the New York Times; he won a Pulitzer Prize in 2010 for his investigation of the dangers of contaminated meat. --David Siegfried
Review
#1 New York Times Bestseller
“Moss [is] a dogged investigative reporter who neither scolds nor proselytizes. . . . Salt Sugar Fat continues Moss’s hot streak of ace reportage. . . . Salt Sugar Fat is a remarkable accomplishment.”
— New York Times
“An exactingly researched, deeply reported work of advocacy journalism.”
— Boston Globe
“You will never look at a bag of Cheetos in quite the same way. . . . Moss [is] a graceful writer and a bulldog of a reporter. . .”
— Seattle Times
“Moss makes the digestion of hard facts easier with a keen sense of the telling anecdote and detail. . . . The book is leavened with colour and humour. . . . The science and history can be fun; the message is anything but. . . . Salt Sugar Fat is a vital document for anyone whose ignorance in the area is proportionate to his waistline.”
— Newsday
“Vital reading for the discerning food consumer.”
— Wall Street Journal
“[An] eye-popping exposé. . . . [and] an absorbing insiders’ view of the food industry. . . . Moss’s vivid reportage remains alive to the pleasures of junk – ‘the heated fat swims over the tongue to send signals of joy to the brain’ – while shrewdly analyzing the manipulative profiteering behind them. The result is a mouth-watering, gut-wrenching look at the food we hate to love.”
— Publishers Weekly
“Revelatory. . . . A shocking, galvanizing manifesto against the corporations manipulating nutrition to fatten their bottom line – one of the most important books of the year.”
— Kirkus Reviews (starred review)
“[A] rich narrative. . . . The book’s insider access . . . is likely to keep readers (especially parents) hungry for more nuggets from inside the belly of the beast.”
— Chicago Tribune
Most helpful customer reviews
35 of 37 people found the following review helpful.
We were duped. I highly recommend this book.
By I'm Erika -- Trust Me.
This book is jam packed with real life conspiracies and facts about the biggest market manipulators in history. I have really enjoyed reading this book as the author is eloquent and keeps heaps of information light and quick to read. It doesn't bog you down while reading and it was a real page turner for me.
I have become concerned with my health over the past 5 years, since I got married, and my overall diet went from lentils and brown rice day in, day out, to cardboard boxes, plastic packaging, fast food, restaurants, take out, microwaves, lunch meats, cheese galore, cookies, candy bars, etc. etc. After being in and out of over 7 different specialists' offices and surgical suites in the years since this S.A.D. under-haul with various severe ailments from gastrointestinal to gynecological, I have began taking back control of my health. This book has been somewhat of a nail in the coffin in those regards.
Basically, I learned to stop feeding myself lies. After reading this book, I can see blatant lies and misleading claims all throughout the grocery store. Meaning advertising on signs and boxes - all bright and colorful to lure you and your children with willynilly health claims based on a minute shred of evidence from a biased Nabisco or General Mills 'investigation.' etc. "Contains real fruit juice" means nothing. "100% natural" is meaningless and any person can put that on ANY product whether it's true or not. Stop giving your kids Capri Sun and sweetened 'fruit juices.' You owe it to them to educate yourself so they have a shot at a long and healthy life without being shot in the foot by their parents during their formative years. Really. Take some responsibility. Don't even get me started on Lunchables! One of the downfalls of our modern day society. "It's like I'm sending my kid to school with a present so he knows I love him! Tee Hee!" Yeah, well enjoy your child having plaque in his arteries by age ten. I digress.
Keep this in mind the next time you go shopping: Lead paint tastes sweet, but that doesn't mean you should eat it!!
I bet a lot of people would be surprised to know that Betty Crocker is a figment of an ad execs imagination. Not real, not in the least. Don't fall for her lies about Crisco and making life easier by NOT cooking dinner and having more TV time in the evenings. This is how we went off the rails, and the U.S. government was a huge promoter of that. Nearly everyone knows the U.S. is in cahoots with the sugar industry, the beef industry, the dairy industry, and so on and so forth. Essentially, anything that is bad or unnecessary for us is shoved in our faces by the DOA (Eat more beef and cheese!), by the huge conglomerates themselves, and, as another surprising example, by Philip Morris; a tobacco company who actually owns several of the biggest "food" production companies around.
Quick - what's the overall biggest contributor of saturated fat in the American diet? Cheese! And then Beef! Whoo hoo! Oh, er...wait....heart disease is our nation's #1 killer.... and the government wants us to eat more.. cheese? Oy.
Anyway - Great book. I highly recommend to anyone without a clue. It might clear some things up. I apologize for being snarky. It's just that.. you know. Insurance rates. Crowded hospitals. Less room in your airplane seat when sitting next to someone due to size. Others' actions impact everyone else and no one considers their fellow-person anymore. Sigh.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Profits before good weal - that's the "free" market way!
By Naples 4 Kids
I haven't' finished reading this book, but so far I can tell you that it takes a respectful look at corporate food industries and their quarterly profit objectives. Food scientists spend their days finding just the right balance of ingredients that will make products irresistible to the consumer. You can bet that you can't eat just one! The title tells you which 3 main ingredients are used to do that. What you end up with is shelf stable, heavily processed foods that hit that pleasure bull's eye.
Processed foods are not nutritious, so they are often vitamin fortified. Why not get your vitamins, fiber and essential minerals from plants and legumes? If you need encouragement with trying to stay away from the easy, go to food stuffs - I recommend you read this book to become aware of just how engineered these products are. It will help you make informed choices when you buy food to serve your family.
14 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
Fascinating read
By Robin Goes
I heard about this on America's Test Kitchen. I found it fascinating. There are things I already knew about the trickiness of the food industry but this went further. For example, I knew if you buy something "low fat" then there's probably more sugar. I found he used a lot of details but not long dragged out scientific talk. There are a lot of notes and the bibliography is huge. The last 20% on my Kindle were acknowledgements, end notes, bibliography, etc to prove his research, which I appreciated. He doesn't offer a solution and I felt frustrated because there's not much we can do to fight back. I felt like trying to stop these giants is hopeless and shame on these companies for doing this to people. However, knowledge is power, we have a choice, and we are basically telling the industry what we want through our purchases. Will it make me stop buying all processed foods? No, but I do look at the labels beyond just the calories and fat content. I am now looking for where sugar is in the list of ingredients. One change I made after the book was in regards to a seasoning I use frequently. I use the Good Seasons Italian Dressing mix to season many things: chicken, vegetables, garlic bread, etc. I love it but after reading this book I looked at the label and saw that sugar was the first ingredient. No wonder I love it so much. I have now cut back on how often I use it.
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